A celebration of good taste
 | | LENA: a perfect mix of high style and riotous flavour |
LENA
Great Eastern Street, EC2
Tel: 020 7739 5714
DECADENTLY furnished in dazzling whites and with a maître d' allegedly poached from Mayfair's celebrity haunt Cipriani, you have to admire the bravado of Shoreditch's oh-so Italian newcomer Lena.
Located within easy striking distance of Islington's intelligentsia, Old Street's in-crowd and the corporate sheen of the City, this joint not so much oozes class as seductively purrs: "Recession? What recession?"
Bookended by a zingy aperitif and a complimentary shot of Limoncello liqueur - the hallmark of any decent Italian - our enjoyable meal on only the second weekend of opening finds the already bustling Lena in apparently rude health.
Behind the shimmering art deco mirrors and polished wooden floors beats the heart of a traditional Tuscan trattoria high on family values and low on pretence.
Fluffy sun-dried tomato focaccia - homemade - was perfect for soaking up the imported olive oil, while a starter of fleshy scallops and pancetta was only slightly hampered by a bland borlotti bean puree.
Parcels of pumpkin ravioli - again handmade - were a riot of flavours while my generous hunk of perfectly rare fillet steak with porcini mushrooms and sweet poached pear was sensational.
A very decent piece of pollock costing the best part of £20 easily outshone its somewhat anonymous accompaniment while a classic dessert of tiramisu lacked a little kick of coffee for my liking.
A shame, because the coffee itself (an espresso and large macchiato) was superb and came with the most delicious biscotti I have tasted which were - you guessed it - homemade.
Unlike us pasty, pastry-obsessed Brits, the Italians just "do" food and Lena offers a stylish celebration of a national obsession.
Inevitably some dishes need a little tinkering at this early stage but the mother and son team behind this confident new endeavour have struck that perfect Italian balance - dashing good looks, expensively dressed and sporting impeccable taste. - MATT HUMPHREYS
Mains: from £9.50.
House wine: from £15.50.
Disabled access: No.
Children welcome: Yes.
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