Search

Macellaio RC, Union Street: Roberto Costa’s third diner takes theatrical theme

PUBLISHED: 13:42 22 December 2016 | UPDATED: 13:42 22 December 2016

Macellaio in Union Street

Macellaio in Union Street

Macellaio

A “theatrical” in-house butchery and a Ligurian bakery are the highlights of the third incarnation of Macellaio RC.

Macellaio in Union StreetMacellaio in Union Street

Just like Roberto Costa’s other two restaurants in Kensington and Exmouth Market, the diner in Union Street, near Borough Market, celebrates quality produce from Italy’s best artisan farmers.

His Kensington branch focuses solely on the Fassona cow’s uniquely lean meat - apparently through natural genetic mutation which causes double muscling – while Exmouth Market adds blue fin tuna - the only fish in the world that can be butchered into four just like a cow. The latest branch has a distinct dramatic edge, inspired by the surrounding theatres. A stage extends into the dining hall between two large banquet tables, where the best dry-aged Fassona cuts of the day are showcased behind glass. Beside it, a white marble butcher’s block is framed by stage curtains and the butcher prepares steaks, carpaccios, tartares, and cured meats in front of the guests.

The beef tartare is second-to-none – simple, letting the quality ingredients shine through, and very reasonably priced at £5.50. The same was true for the beef rib, presented after a dramatic gesture of plunging a steak knife in the table - a ritual at Macellaio symbolising the ‘butcher’ after which the restaurant is named.

Dough for the Ligurian bakery or “Pizzeria secondo me”, is handmade with water, natural yeasts, and the highest quality Italian flour, and proved for 48 hours to enhance its aroma and digestibility. They serve traditional breads, vegetable tarts, fresh pasta and pastries. We tried the salumeria with prosciutto cotto, which again is a bargain at £7.

Macellaio in Union StreetMacellaio in Union Street

If theatre is the theme here, and the principal characters are the ingredients, whose astounding flavours take centre stage.

Latest Islington Entertainment Stories

Friday, October 19, 2018

Tight, polished disco-funk from the Australian upstarts shows adventurous promise.

Thursday, October 18, 2018

Indie favourites take their Good Humor LP out the garage and into the British Library for a live outing on its 20th anniversary

Wednesday, October 17, 2018

It’s the season to get spooky, and an independent film festival celebrating the best of the horror genre is about to launch in Islington.

Wednesday, October 17, 2018

Islington’s multifaceted landscape is at the centre of local photographer Richard Morrison’s latest exhibition.

PROMOTED CONTENT

Fostering older teenagers means giving them the skills for life as an adult. Here, a supportive lodgings carer with Islington Council and young adult who has left care share their stories

Newsletter Sign Up

Islington Gazette twice-weekly newsletter
Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Our Privacy Policy

Most read entertainment

Show Job Lists

Digital Edition

cover

Enjoy the
Islington Gazette
e-edition today

Subscribe

Education and Training

cover

Read the
Education and Training
e-edition today

Read Now