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As more good quality diners sprawl their way across the new and rather swanky mezzanine level at King’s Cross, the place becomes less a functional travel terminus and more and more a destination in itself.

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Benito’s Hat

King’s Cross Station, Mezzanine level

N1 9AP

Tube: King’s Cross/St Pancras

Tel: 020 7812 1304

Web: www.benitos-hat.com

Mains: from £4

Wine: from £3.85

Children Welcome: Yes

Disabled access: Yes

Sandwiched between an Italian place and another eaterie, with it’s own collection of tables, lies Benito’s Hat, the fourth branch of the popular Mexican outlet.

The concept is familiar – choose your filling, pick your salad and sauces and get handed an enormous burrito.

Where Benito’s Hat scores highly is the quality of the ingredients; the chunks of steak are well-marinated and succulent, the grilled chicken is deliciously seasoned and the pork is braised with just a hint of cinnamon.

The spicy and medium salsas are packed with flavour and, though the guacamole was a little bland, with so much else going it didn’t matter.

Tacos are also available and a nice quirk of the King’s Cross branch is the burrita – a scaled down version of the main event, presumably aimed at the weight conscious.

Not me, though: I tore through my delicious burrito with gay abandon and, after washing it down with a Pacifico, one of the finest lagers on the planet, I wished I had a long train journey to sleep it all off.

The Margaritas are also very good – intriguingly made with lemon or passionfruit rather than the traditional lime – though at almost £7 for quite a small glass they need to be.

Benito’s Hat is good enough to be worth a trip to the station even if you are not travelling, and if you are, it’s tasty enough to pop down early.

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