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Restaurant review: Browns, Islington, N1

11:51 06 March 2013

Browns have completely re-vamped their menu

Browns have completely re-vamped their menu

Archant

Out with the old, in with the new seems to be the approach Browns in Upper Street has taken.

Browns 9 Islington Green N1 8DU Tube: Angel Tel: 020 7226 2555 Web: www.browns-restaurants.co.uk Mains: small dishes from £4.95, large from £8.45 Wine: from £14.95 a bottle Children welcome: Yes Disabled access: Yes

The branch has undergone a huge makeover this year and now boasts a new look, new menu and a new manager.

The opulent bar has been shifted to the left of the eatery allowing diners to look out and prospective patrons to look in.

According to James Warrillow, the new manager, its previous location at the front misled passers-by into believing all the tables were occupied.

Browns’ new menu has upped the quality of the dishes available, according to James.

The focus has firmly shifted towards diners enjoying fine food at reasonable prices.

For our starters I opted for crab and tiger prawn linguine, which is also available as a main, and my dining partner went for the crab and avocado stick.

Both were generously sized and bursting with lots of delicious flavours although the stack could have done with a smidgen more seasoning.

As it was a Sunday, Browns were offering a choice of four different types of roast in addition to their normal menu.

It also generously allows children to eat for free (one child per adult main) from their kids menu.

We went for the roast lamb with the trimmings including Yorkshire puddings which like the starters were generously portioned.

The lamb was cooked perfectly; a dark shade of pink, as were the vegetables and the gravy was one of the best my dining partner had ever tasted.

I was wary about ordering a fillet of beef as there have been far too many episodes when my usual medium rare request is either medium or rare but not both.

Browns did what many have failed to do by serving a perfect steak with crushed new potatoes and a mouth watering sauce.

Our desserts of Browns Eton mess with cherries, white chocolate, hazelnuts and clotted cream and crème brûlée were again very generously portioned.

So much that two people could easily share one between then.

Going by the standard of our meals Browns new look will attract new diners – who will keep coming back.

Browns are offering a set menu for Mothers Day on March 10.

Any two courses for £19.95 and you can add a third course for £5 extra.

- Lorraine King

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