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by Stephen Moore
Monday, October 15, 2012
Billing itself as ‘just another pub’ in cahoots with its Essex Road brother The New Rose, Filthy’s better fits that bill.
68 Amwell Street, EC1R 1UU
Tel: 020 8617 3505
Mains: from £7
Wine: from £14
Children welcome:Yes, until 7pm
Disabled access: Yes
Perched on the corner of a semi-residential spot between the roaring traffic of Pentonville Road and the hipster haunts of Exmouth Market, this unassuming boozer was peppered with suits, students and creative types on our mid-week visit.
Food has to fight it out against Filthy’s decent whiskey collection for priority here, and it’s wisely kept things basic with a coterie of burger and pizza options, extended with salmon fishcakes and ploughman’s.
The hand-made pizzas are great value for a fiver (weekday lunchtimes) or less (two-for-one Monday nights) and still fair at £8.50 for a decent topping of anchovies, capers, olives and mozzarella. The dough was light and thin(ish) too.
A dense homemade bun held up well with my stacked, greasy but tasty lamb and rosemary burger (£9), which boasted some of the best skin-on chips I’ve had in a long time.
And the smoked chicken salad with baby artichoke and sundried tomato (£8.50) was passable at least.
We weren’t too worried that we couldn’t find room for the ice cream scoops which qualified as £5 desserts.
The cheapest options turn out to be the best; scotch egg and piccalilli (£3.50) and chips (£3) are great for both your wallet and your tastebuds.
Don’t make any special plans to visit; just know that, should your belly cry ‘burger’ and you’re in the area, this place’ll do just fine.