Search

Restaurant Review: Meat People, N1

15:38 23 April 2012

Meat People is in an impressive listed building

Meat People is in an impressive listed building

Archant

»Meat People, the only steak restaurant near Angel Tube, is housed in a venue steeped in culinary history.

Food has been served in this beautiful Grade II listed art-deco café for nigh on 100 years.

Back in 1920, it was Alfredo’s, an establishment run by the Italian Deritis family – and the building is now owned by one of their former employees.

Since then it has been a film set – notably for cult classic Quadrophenia, and until recently a sausage and mash parlour.

The latest incarnation concentrates, as the name suggests, on meat, but also classic cocktails, and friendly service all in the vogue 1920s style.

Restaurant info:

Meat People, 4-6, Essex Road, N1 8LN. Tel: 020 7359 5361

Web: www.meatpeople.co.uk

Mains: from £13

Wines: from £16,

Children welcome: Yes

Disabled access: No

The chef also has a penchant for all things fresh – the kitchen has no freezer or microwave – and a lot of time is spent at markets picking unusual specials like crocodile and kangaroo.

Our starter of springbok (a South African deer) was off the specials board and was absolutely delicious.

Very tender meat, but with a slightly fibrous texture and strong flavour, was accompanied by mangos and chillies.

The scallops were also good and chunky, served with a slightly curry-flavoured chickpea puree. The thin buvette steak, another special, was moist and succulent from the parsley and garlic marinade.

Then the sea bream – a strong fishy taste offset well by beetroot and broad bean underneath.

All very good so far, and one thing worth particular mention is the side dishes.

Much more inventive than at most places – our asparagus and parmesan with poached egg, French beans with garlic and shallots and Portobello mushrooms were all excellent, rivalling the mains for taste.

Although the fondant was recommended, for dessert, we had the pears poached in Malbec – a cinnamon delight – and lime cheesecake, which was moist and fluffy.

All of this was washed down with a fruity Chilean number which was far better than a sub-£20 price tag would imply.

In fact all the costs at Meat People are reasonable. The food, service, surroundings and drinks are all very good, but the price tag doesn’t match.

A very welcome addition to the Angel, which can now boast a steak restaurant people should travel far and wide to try.

Related articles

0 comments

Latest Entertainment Stories

Friday, January 23, 2015
90 year old artist Joan Dannatt in her Islington studio.

Danniel Wittenberg talks to Highgate artist Joan Dannatt about holding her first ever exhibition to coincide with her 90th birthday.

Friday, January 23, 2015
The Greek Larder, York Way, King's Cross

Could 2015 be the year of Greek food?

Thursday, January 22, 2015
Ilan Goodman (Liam) and Gina Bramhill (Melody) in rehearsals for Bad Jews at the St. James Theatre. Picture: Robert Workman

The Crouch Hill actress talks to Alex Bellotti about the show’s London debut and why she’s hoping to carve out a niche in comedy.

Tuesday, January 20, 2015
Radicals and Victuallers

Pub grub is authentic taste of America

Most read entertainment

#Facebookdown! Here’s how the internet reacted to the outage.

Start the random government generator; even the experts can’t agree on what’s going to happen come May.

There’s 100 days to go until the election, but what happens on day 101?

Can the public get to the bottom of those bright lights in the sky?

Digital Edition

Image
Read the $m.global.archantvariables.NewspaperTitle e-edition today E-edition
Family Notices 24
Our trusted business finder