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Restaurant review: The Pig and Butcher, N1.

12:40 01 November 2012

The fish looked pretty impressive

The fish looked pretty impressive

Helen Cathcart

»With so many pubs serving up great fodder these days a new place has to offer something a little different. The Pig and Butcher’s unique selling point is their approach to meat; they get it delivered straight from the farm, they have their own butchery room where the chefs chop it to size and there is even a smokery on site.

Restaurant info:

The Pig and Butcher

80 Liverpool Rd

N1 0QD

Tube: Angel

Tel: 020 7226 8304

Web: www.thepigandbutcher.co.uk

Mains: from £11.50

Wine: from £16.25

Children welcome: Yes

Disabled access: Yes

This attention to detail must be particularly useful trying to muscle in on the crowded Sunday dinner market, which is when we visited.

As well as other boozers, the pub was up against some stiff competition in the form of my girlfriend’s roasts which, at the risk of sounding biased, are truly something to behold.

But the Pig and Butcher came out fighting – after a couple of hang-over clearing bellinis the light and tasty mozzarella and tomato salad was a joy.

Our other starter, the sardines, were bony little blighters, but had a nice hint of spice to counter their fishy nature.

Most of the wines were available caraffe-sized, just the job for a Sunday afternoon, so we picked a medium red and waited for the main event.

First the beef, which was served good and rare (although I wasn’t asked) and was bursting with flavour. There was a fair bit of fat to negotiate, but it was worth it for the strong tasting meat.

The lamb, on the other hand, was a little overdone for my taste, and again we weren’t asked how we liked it – but it was nonetheless toothsome and a good portion.

As every roast aficionado will tell you the sides are nearly as important as the meat. Here the vegetables were soft, the potatoes crisp on the outside, fluffy on the inside and the gravy was thin, but packed with flavour.

I always think it’s to my detriment as a Yorkshireman that I don’t really like my county’s puddings, but these ones had me munching away. A quick mention for creamed leeks, which were a smooth treat – top marks all round.

If a roast isn’t your bag, the fish we saw served up on the other tables looked beautiful.

For pudding we had the sticky toffee, which was completely unnecessary but a very sweet and satisfying way to round things off.

With the menu changing every day this a definitely a place to come back to.

If nothing else, I’m very keen to try the venison.

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