Restaurant review: Yalla Yalla
13:13 30 July 2012
While Yalla Yalla’s latest venture is situated beneath the splendid metal lattice of the western concourse roof, it’s hard to enjoy the vista or indulge in a pleasant evening’s dining with station announcements every 30 seconds.
King’s Cross Station Mezzanine Level
Tel: 020 7837 3680
Tube: King’s Cross St Pancras
Mains: from £3.75 per mezze dish
Wine: from £4.75 per glass
Children welcome: Yes
Disabled access: Yes
But that’s fine; the mezzanine is more a place for grab’n’go food than a gluttonous gutful.
Truth is, some of the treats at this Beirut street food outlet – the fourth in the capital – are good enough to make you miss your train.
Lebanese dips, wraps and traditional mezze are cleverly packaged in plastic trays for those tiny train-seat tables – and they’re not short on taste.
The stuffed vine leaves (£4) pack a citrus punch, while the Kibbé Lahmé (lamb and cracked wheat parcels, £4.50) are a crumbly, meaty joy.
Better still is the sumptuously aromatic charcoal-smoked aubergine paté, and flavoursome red pepper dip (£4.50 each) for your pita bread.
The exotic lamb shawarma wrap with pink, pickled turnip and tahini sauce (£4.75) fills a hole with panache, too.
The breads, heated in a microwave, aren’t their best but do try the heavenly backlawa and sweet desserts (£3.25 for three).
If you’re prepared to fork out a little more than your average, a trip to Yalla Yalla rewards.