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Review: Tapas Revolution’s small dishes pack huge flavour

PUBLISHED: 16:08 17 June 2015 | UPDATED: 16:08 17 June 2015

Pulpo

Pulpo

Isabel Infantes/07795350975

One of the newest faces in Spanish cooking, Omar Allibhoy is creating a buzz with his new offering, Tapas Revolution.

Gambas Gambas

The Shoreditch branch of the eatery is conveniently located next to Rich Mix and other nightspots, making it the perfect start - or end - to an evening out.

High bar stools and little tables modelled on the tapas culture of Omar’s birthplace, Madrid, bring a fresh Mediterranean vibe to east London.

Sipping on refreshing citrusy sangria, we ordered bread and garlicky aioli to start, both which were deliciously light and fluffy.

Manchego was subtle, nutty and moreish while the Jamón ibérico de bellota Joselito (according to the menu: declared the best ham in the world) was outstanding. The slight, translucent slivers of deep rose melted in the mouth, with a wonderful rich aftertaste.

Pulpo a la gallega arrived, plump and puckered tentacles of maroon octopus, fragrant with deep orange paprika. Accompanying potatoes were undercooked but the dish had an enjoyable smokiness.

Croquettas were the empitome of comfort, the crispy breadcrumbs oozed salty ham and cheese, wickedly creamy and rich.

We also ordered gambas al ajillo, tiger prawns with garlic and guindilla chillies – plentiful in both, these little pink crustaceans packed a huge punch. The dish arrived spitting, and spluttering with olive oil heat, simple but gorgeously pungent, it was a perfect accompaniment to the pillowy bread.

Finally, and somewhat belatedly for our appetites, which was a shame, came impossibly tender Iberian pork cheeks braised with chestnuts and a velvet smooth chocolate sauce.

Making the classic tapas mistake, we ordered too much food, yet this was but a gastronomic glimpse into the bountiful menu.

Dishes are simple and artfully executed and if our small selection was indicative of the rest on offer – we were very impressed indeed.

Address: 58 Bethnal Green Road, E1 8JW

Tube: Shoreditch High Street

Price: Tapas from £2.50

Web: tapasrevolution.com

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