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By JON DEAN
Thursday, August 16, 2012
Peruvian cuisine is definitely the food of the moment in London.
Three such establishments have opened in the capital in the last 12 months, and with pop-up Peruvians appearing aplenty, there has never been a better time to try some Andean specialities.
It was only a few short weeks after being introduced to Peruvian food by Islington’s own Tierra Peru, that I found myself checking out Soho’s take on proceedings.
Decor-wise it’s a cool little bodega type joint, a contrast to the sleek, polished lines of the Islington version.
We got cracking with some pisco sours, one of Peru’s finest exports, and settled down to the tapas-style menu.
Ceviche 17 Frith Street, W1D 4RG
Tube: Tottenham Court Road/Leicester Square
Tel: 020 72922040 Web: cevicheuk.com
Mains: tapas style helpings start from £5
Wines: from £17.50 a bottle
Children welcome: Yes
Disabled access: No
In fact, it’s worth saying a few words about the cocktails – they were sublime.
The Passion de Ceviche had hints of cinnamon and citrus and was one of the tastiest alcoholic drinks I have ever imbibed.
Back to the food, the dishes were small and we ordered a few apiece in a Spanish fashion.
The Ceviche was amazing – less saucy than others I have had with the lively lime and chilli (tiger milk) more of a marinade over the tender sea bass, prawn and octopus.
The causa mar consisted of more prawns and fleshy avocado sat on a potato cake, which was a more relaxed affair after the vigorous ceviche.
Then we had a couple of skewers – the salmon was nice, but no different from something you might cook on the barbecue at home.
The steak variety was much more distinctive and had been seasoned within an inch of it’s delicious life.
Even this, however, paled in comparison with the lomo saltado – a mouth-watering collection of the most succulent beef fillet topped with a chilli and saltado sauce for a zingy, potent kick. It tasted triumphant and I felt the same as I waddled out into the busy downtown streets.
Ceviche is a very cool and fun way to try the newest foodie fashion in town.