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by Sina Reischauer
Monday, July 30, 2012
While Yalla Yalla’s latest venture is situated beneath the splendid metal lattice of the western concourse roof, it’s hard to enjoy the vista or indulge in a pleasant evening’s dining with station announcements every 30 seconds.
King’s Cross Station Mezzanine Level
Tel: 020 7837 3680
Tube: King’s Cross St Pancras
Mains: from £3.75 per mezze dish
Wine: from £4.75 per glass
Children welcome: Yes
Disabled access: Yes
But that’s fine; the mezzanine is more a place for grab’n’go food than a gluttonous gutful.
Truth is, some of the treats at this Beirut street food outlet – the fourth in the capital – are good enough to make you miss your train.
Lebanese dips, wraps and traditional mezze are cleverly packaged in plastic trays for those tiny train-seat tables – and they’re not short on taste.
The stuffed vine leaves (£4) pack a citrus punch, while the Kibbé Lahmé (lamb and cracked wheat parcels, £4.50) are a crumbly, meaty joy.
Better still is the sumptuously aromatic charcoal-smoked aubergine paté, and flavoursome red pepper dip (£4.50 each) for your pita bread.
The exotic lamb shawarma wrap with pink, pickled turnip and tahini sauce (£4.75) fills a hole with panache, too.
The breads, heated in a microwave, aren’t their best but do try the heavenly backlawa and sweet desserts (£3.25 for three).
If you’re prepared to fork out a little more than your average, a trip to Yalla Yalla rewards.