ChrisKitch Restaurant: “Fine dining that deserves a huge fan base”
PUBLISHED: 08:00 10 August 2016
ChrisKitch brings flavour to Shoreditch’s Hoxton Square.
Locals in Muswell Hill have long adored the bold flavours, fabulous salads and attention to detail served up by Chris Honor at his tiny cafe Chriskitch.
The Bounds Green resident’s food has been favourably reviewed by both Giles Coren and Jay Rayner and inspired a cook book, (Big Flavours From a Small Kitchen.)
But licensing difficulties and East London’s relentless energy perhaps inevitably meant the Australian’s entry onto the evening restaurant scene would be in Shoreditch.
Located just round the corner from Old Street in Hoxton Market - a square with an almost French feel to it - Chriskitch Shoreditch has a nice ring to it.
Visiting a month after opening the decor is pure Hoxton; industrial concrete floor and exposed pipes, softened by leather seats and pale wood doors.
The clean open design includes a great view of the mastery going on in the kitchen.
Amuses bouches include a kind of lollipop parmesan cracker, (good) deconstructed crispy pancakes of basil seeds encased in feathery light rice parcels, and a bright white truffle powder that looks like something Hoxtonites stuff up their noses on a Saturday night.
This was followed by a trio of breads with flavours including beer and blue cheese alongside a chilli cheese cornbread.
My tuna tartare a complex yet complementary circle of perfectly even fish chunks, avocado, cucumber, softened radish chives and caviar lifted with a citrus dressing and fresh coriander.
My kitchen trained companion was deeply impressed by her deep green swirl of pea mousse and egg with broccoli and goat’s cheese and rye crisps.
Too often the most modestly priced wine on the menu is just so so.
But from a short list, our French white Rousanne was so good I found myself noting down the producer.
Mains came with the same care and thought. Bacon and egg was an oblong of slow cooked pork belly with texture from crunchy quinoa, and a melting pomme fondant and softly cooked egg with asparagus, slices of apple and mushrooms was perfectly judged.
My friend’s first taste of her smoked blackened lamb with feta date chutney was greeted with a blissful look. I got lucky with another perfect pud, a rich, oozing chocolate fondant.
An overspiced poached pear with puff pastry biscuit and cloying caramel sauce struck a rare bum note.
With the service more keen than knowledgable, there are a few wrinkles to iron out. But really this is very fine dining which deserves a huge fan base.
ChrisKitch Shoreditch 02070336666. 5, Hoxton Market. Chriskitch.com
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