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Restaurant review: Grillshack, Soho, W1

PUBLISHED: 12:22 25 November 2013 | UPDATED: 12:22 25 November 2013

Grillshack, in the West End

Grillshack, in the West End

Archant

This is the time of year when, regardless of preference, a chap can find himself braving the West End to do a spot of Christmas shopping.

For many people this is a pleasure – gasping at the wonderful lights and impressive shop displays and generally basking in a bit of retail therapy.

For others, it’s a yearly chore involving a sweaty slog through jam packed Oxford Street, desperately hanging on to myriad shopping bags and with smoke coming from an over-used credit card.

But even the most reluctant shopper can look forward to some light at the end of the tunnel in the form of a well deserved snack.

Grillshack fills this role admirably.

It’s an American diner style affair slap bang in the middle of shopsville – cheap, unfussy and unpretentious.

There’s no table service, which can lead to a bit of queue at the counter, but you can also order via touch screen panels dotted about the place, which is rather fun, as are the enormous range of self-service sauces.

We had some popcorn chicken to nibble while we waited for the main event, and it was nice to see it made from actual chicken flesh rather than reformed meat.

The grilled half chicken was moist and succulent, while the double cheeseburger was big and satisfying, even if the patties themselves could have used a bit more seasoning.

Our also-grilled corn was a bit special, doused in chipotle, butter and cheese, they really are things of salty beauty.

Finally, the ice cream sandwich was nice enough, though the cookies used for the ‘‘bread’’ came from the fridge and were of teeth-jarring toughness.

Even with a pitcher of beer the whole thing was around £30 - justification enough to treat yourself when the rampant consumerism of Christmas shopping becomes too much.

Jon Dean


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