Restaurant review: Les Trois Garcon, Shoreditch, E1
PUBLISHED: 12:38 23 May 2013 | UPDATED: 12:54 23 May 2013
»The whole world seems to be 1920s mad at the moment. The Great Gatsby makes it to film and suddenly it’s speakeasy’s this, jazz that, flapper dresses the other.
But Les Trois Garcon have been on that tip for ages; it’s a place that harks back when cocktails were free flowing and the charleston was the most fashionable way to dance.
With impeccable timing, they’ve just announced an evening of ’20s dazzle and sparkle on June 10, with a special menu from chef Michael Chan and a live orchestra playing French jazz and swing.
My own impeccable timing meant I missed all that, but still got to enjoy the normal pleasures of this alluring little restaurant.
The first thing to say is the dining room is stunning – really something. Handbags and drapes descend from the ceiling and stuffed animals, including a hammerhead shark and a bulldog with wings, give the place almost colonial grandeur.
Les Trois Garcon
1 Club Row
Station: Shoreditch High Street
Mains: from £15
Wine: from £24.50 a bottle
Disabled access: Yes, no toilets
Children welcome: lunchtimes Thursday and Friday
It’s also very French, as you would expect from the name. The menu (barring the odd Asian twist), the wines, the staff and maître d’ are all exports from our Gallic neighbours.
So off we went with the escargot, which came in a tortellini of pig’s trotter. Tasty stuff, but I still prefer snails served in the traditional manner – in their shells with garlic butter.
Like the foie gras, which was served in the classic style and was fantastic; part seared and all smooth and impossibly decadent, especially when washed down with a sweet Alsace wine. Meanwhile, despite the chateaubriand looking tempting, I ended up with the veal and was very happy I did.
I normally associate veal with the flattened, breaded escalopes the Italians favour, but this was a juicy cut of meat served on the bone. Slightly gamey, but not as strong as venison, it was just the job with a rich jus and soft vegetables.
The chicken was delicately flavoured with ginger and lemongrass, which was slightly overpowered by the pancetta wrapped around the accompanying green beans. It still made for a very good medley of flavours.
No one quite does cheese like the French, and true to form our fromage came out at room temperature and full of muscular flavour.
In the dimmed lights of Les Trois Garcon, imbibing the excellent food and wine it’s easy to imagine yourself back in the jazz age.
You certainly feel a world away from the slightly bleak stretch of Shoreditch that awaits outside.
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