Restaurant review: Novikov, Mayfair, W1

PUBLISHED: 10:50 13 June 2013 | UPDATED: 10:50 13 June 2013

The fresh fish and vegetable market is a nice touch

The fresh fish and vegetable market is a nice touch


A sprawling behemoth encompassing both an Asian and Italian section over two floors, Novikov is a beast of restaurant.

Restaurant info:

Novikov, 50A Berkeley Street, W1J 8HA

Tube: Green Park

020 7399 4330

Mains: from £14

Wine: from £27

Diasabled access: Yes

Children welcome: Yes

Impressive, but it has to be said the decor on the Asian floor at least is a bit corporate and rather uninspiring – not helped by the Ibiza chill-out soundtrack played constantly.

Busy and bustling though, even on a Monday night, and it has some lovely touches – including a fresh fish and vegetable market where you can pick ingredients and have the chef whip them into something of his recommendation or your choosing.

Less lovely is the price – it’s not cheap and the portions are fairly small. But it is in Mayfair, and despite these misgivings I really enjoyed the food.

The menu is large and encompasses a bewildering array of pan-Asian cuisine, so it seemed wise to pick and share a few tasters.

After munching a few chilli edamame beans we had some fantastic dim sum, chock full of prawn and invigorating coriander.

The sashimi was also great; light, crisp and zesty while the soft shell crab maki –complete with a claw making a break from the roll for freedom – was nice enough but overpriced.

The standard remained high on the main courses; the succulent steak came cubed with a lively chilli sauce and the sea bass, smothered in chilli and garlic, was delicate with an unexpected hint of sweetness.

A suspiciously good banana crumble later and we were away.

The service was a bit of a let down – in your face when you didn’t need them, nowhere to be found when you did – but it was still a thoroughly good meal.

There may not be much character to the restaurant, but there’s bags in the food.

Jon Dean

If you value what this story gives you, please consider supporting the Islington Gazette. Click the link in the orange box below for details.

Related articles

Become a supporter

This newspaper has been a central part of community life for many years, through good times and bad, serving as your advocate and trusted source of local information. Our industry is facing testing times, which is why I’m asking for your support. Every single contribution will help us continue to produce award-winning local journalism that makes a measurable difference to our community.

Thank you.

Most Read

Most Read

Latest from the Islington Gazette