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Restaurant review: Rotunda, King’s Cross, N1

PUBLISHED: 10:19 03 April 2013 | UPDATED: 11:53 03 April 2013

Rotunda, as you'd expect, is round Pic Danny Elwes

Rotunda, as you'd expect, is round Pic Danny Elwes

Danny Elwes

Kings Place, the enormous glass monolith that looms over York Way, is known as home to an arts centre, theatre and left-leaning newspapers.

Restaurant info:

Rotunda

Kings Place

90 York Way

N1 9AG

Tube: King’s Cross/St Pancras

Tel: 020 7014 2840

Web: www.rotundabarandrestaurant.co.uk

Mains: from £13.50

Wine: from £17.95

Children welcome: Yes

Disabled: Yes

Food hadn’t really come into the equation until Irishman Nicky Foley took over the reins at Rotunda, the on-site restaurant, and revamped the menu.

Walking into the bar is a little underwhelming, because it looks like a theatre lobby, which is essentially what it is. But once you get behind the screen that segregates drinkers from diners, things improve greatly, with a large window offering a view across the wharf.

There’s a lot of meat on the menu, complete with diagrams of livestock, and the starters and mains seem to be slightly at odds – the former complicated and adventurous, the latter rather straightforward.

We had the ricotta with melon and sea vegetable tempura, an interesting dish but unbalanced. A mouthful of cheese, fruit and peppery veg was just right, but all too often your fork was overpowered by sweetness.

The ceviche-style scallops were better; with nettles, almonds and a bitter hit of lemon and lime, they were much more to my taste.

The mains were simple and effective: steak, lamb, fish and so on, although my Denver cut of beef is a new one on me. An American import, it’s a cousin to sirloin – slightly tougher, lots of taste and, in this case, with a well-seasoned, powerful crust.

The Dover sole was excellent, with the head but no skin and a flavour strong enough to make the pot of tartar sauce unnecessary.

The sides too were unambitious but well executed – fantastic mash (both potato and carrot), squash, greens, etc. The rhubarb and crumble wasn’t stunning, but by then I was quite full.

Rotunda is worth a visit on its own. If you are at Kings Place for a show, it’s a must.


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