Restaurant review: Señor Ceviche, W1
PUBLISHED: 17:15 04 September 2015 | UPDATED: 17:16 04 September 2015
Cocktails flowing, a DJ spinning Latin vibes, bright street art and striking mismatched decor – Señor Ceviche is every inch what I’d imagine a bustling Peruvian bar to be like.
That’s because restaurant owner Harry Edmeades has travelled the length and breadth of the South American country to bring a very authentic slice of it to London through this popular restaurant venture.
Inspired by Barranco – the hip, bohemian district of Peru’s capital Lima – its interior combines vivid colours, neon Chicha beverage posters, floors painted in colonial Spanish patterns and traditional reclaimed furniture.
Meanwhile, its menu brings together ceviche and barbecue dishes in a typically tapas style, with the cocktail list celebrating Peru’s traditional drink, Pisco. The Pisco Sour – featuring gomme syrup, egg white and Chuncho bitters – is a sharp but dreamy recommendation.
We were advised to pick three dishes each, so went with a good mix of ceviche and cooked options. First up was the chifa chicharonnes – melt-in- the-mouth, slow cooked pork belly with a crispy skin oozing
the sweet stickiness of its soy sauce glaze.
Tempura baby squid, prawns and cod came perfectly battered with a pickled jalapeño mayonnaise giving the dish that spicy Peruvian kick.
On the ceviche front, the sea bream served with tiger’s milk was off-the-boat fresh and tender, with its strong tangy flavour beautifully balanced by its sweet accompaniments of sweet potato puree, choclo corn and plantain.
But our favourite was the Mr Miyagi – salmon tiradito, again served with tiger’s milk, but the flavour of the fish shone through a little more, with pomegranate, purple shiso and salmon scratchings completing the dish.
Grilled chicken skewers with a spicy sauce were also impressive, but the stand out dish of the evening was indisputably the Pachamancha pork ribs – so beautifully slow cooked that the tender meat fell away from the bones to the touch, with the slathering of Nikkei barbecue sauce mouthwateringly punchy but not overpowering.
Desserts of ‘Peruvian mess’ (an exotic take on the English favourite) and passion fruit cheesecake were appropriately light and lived up to the high expectations set by the main meal.
But the proof of quality is in its popularity and, on our recent Thursday evening visit, the place was bustling with not a spare table in sight. I left feeling like I need to move a trip to Peru a bit further up my bucket list but, for the time being, Señor Ceviche is the perfect place to soak up a bit of Andean atmosphere – and with a very reasonable price tag.
Tapas dishes are available from £4.50 and wine from £19 a bottle. Book here
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