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Restaurant review: Sixty One, Marylebone, W1

PUBLISHED: 16:24 20 March 2014 | UPDATED: 16:25 20 March 2014

The inside is a touch corporate, but the food is exciting

The inside is a touch corporate, but the food is exciting

Archant

Searcy’s, the company ­behind Sixtyone, has a pretty impressive roster of restaurants; the top of the Gherkin, the St Pancras Grand, Blenheim Palace and a champagne bar in Selfridges to name but a handful.

Restaurant info

Sixtyone Restaurant

61 Upper Berkeley Street

W1H 7PP

Tube: Mable Arch

T: 020 7958 3222

W: www.sixtyonerestaurant.co.uk

Mains: from £14

Wine: from £16 a bottle

Disabled access: Yes

Children welcome: Lunch and early evening

Their latest venture is a more approachable affair set in one of the gorgeous town houses behind the back of Marble Arch.

Despite being billed as a ‘‘neighbourhood’’ restaurant (I don’t know many people that live in a neighbourhood like that) wandering through the beautiful, lamp lit, Dickensian streets makes it feel more like a destination eaterie.

Dull

That said, the interior decor is a bit dull and corporate, but the service is immaculate and after a couple of crisp martinis, served in amazing two piece glasses, all our attention was on the menu.

A la carte is on the pricey side, if not buttock-clenching, but we went for the extravagant taster menu (£75 a pop) to fully get to grips with chef Arnaud Stevens’ inventive looking concoctions.

After a few snacks, beautifully presented inside a storybook, the first course proper was an odd one; mussels and pork belly with a white chocolate ganache and a malty bread sauce.

Yet it worked – the sharpness of the sea fought boldly against the yeast – and this curiosity was a taste of things to come on a menu that was initially playful, then progressively traditional and gamey.

Rich rabbit ravioli with root veg instead of pasta, delicate, rare chunks of pigeon with snail, perfectly cooked cod with an opulent bacon and truffle broth (pick of the bunch) all had plenty of flair.

Even the dessert – a fairly straightforward lemon ­meringue – was given a flourish by somellier’s pairing of a zesty weiss beer.

From a place that looks like it might take itself too seriously, the food was actually rather fun, not to mention tasty.

The set menu is probably one for special occasions, but a la carte should be within the reach of most.


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