Restaurant review: The Duchess of Kent, Holloway, N7
PUBLISHED: 12:29 23 December 2013
The Duchess of Kent is a smart little pub tucked away in the back streets between Islington and Holloway, away from the chaos and bright lights of Upper Street, but a mere stone’s throw from Highbury and Islington tube.
Duchess of Kent
441 Liverpool Road,
Tube: Highbury and Islington
T: 020 7609 7104
Mains: from £9.50
Wine: from £16
Children welcome: until 9pm
Disabled access: yes, no toilet
It’s a peaceful, cosy kind of place with a good selection of ales and a better choice of wine.
The food is mostly a collection of pub classics served with a sprinkling of gastro magic to lift it out of the pie and mash bracket.
To kick off, the crispy beer battered courgette came with a hidden, oozing layer of cheese sauce to keep things interesting. It was a tasty enough appetiser, which by no means ruined the appetite for the main course.
The salmon was also delicate, a smoked little number perked up with lemon freshness and a tangy potato rosti.
Equally perky was the squash gratin – baked butternut topped with cheese and breadcrumbs with a surprising chilli kick and punchy flavour.
The chicken parfait was smooth, offset by a semi-sweet chutney, while the duck breast came pink, juicy and perched atop a generous helping of fragrant potato mash.
It was all rather nice, without being spectacular, but the roaring fire and range of drinks make it a cosy little place to dine and an attractive alternative to some of N1’s over-priced boozers.
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