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Restaurant review: The Duchess of Kent, Holloway, N7

PUBLISHED: 12:29 23 December 2013

The Duchess of Kent

The Duchess of Kent

Archant

The Duchess of Kent is a smart little pub tucked away in the back streets between Islington and Holloway, away from the chaos and bright lights of Upper Street, but a mere stone’s throw from Highbury and Islington tube.

Restaurant info

Duchess of Kent

441 Liverpool Road,

N7 8PR

Tube: Highbury and Islington

T: 020 7609 7104

Mains: from £9.50

Wine: from £16

Children welcome: until 9pm

Disabled access: yes, no toilet

It’s a peaceful, cosy kind of place with a good selection of ales and a better choice of wine.

The food is mostly a collection of pub classics served with a sprinkling of gastro magic to lift it out of the pie and mash bracket.

To kick off, the crispy beer battered courgette came with a hidden, oozing layer of cheese sauce to keep things interesting. It was a tasty enough appetiser, which by no means ruined the appetite for the main course.

The salmon was also delicate, a smoked little number perked up with lemon freshness and a tangy ­potato rosti.

Equally perky was the squash gratin – baked butternut topped with cheese and breadcrumbs with a surprising chilli kick and punchy flavour.

The chicken parfait was smooth, offset by a semi-sweet chutney, while the duck breast came pink, juicy and perched atop a generous helping of fragrant potato mash.

It was all rather nice, without being spectacular, but the roaring fire and range of drinks make it a cosy little place to dine and an ­attractive alternative to some of N1’s over-priced boozers.


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