Restaurant review: Tonic and Remedy, City Road, EC1
PUBLISHED: 12:23 10 June 2015 | UPDATED: 12:23 10 June 2015
The stretch of City Road between Angel and Old Street has changed beyond all recognitions during the past couple of years – where once stood disused car parks and Brownfield sites now stand glittering glass behemoths.
Tonic and Remedy
151 - 157 City Road
Tube: Old Street
T: 020 3837 3102
Mains: from £10
Wine: from £19
Disabled access: Yes
Children welcome: Yes
Whether you agree with this rampant commercialisation or not, there are some plus sides – and new eateries like Tonic and Remedy are definitely one of them.
Situated in the monstrous M by Montcalm hotel building at the south end of the road, the restaurant is on the first floor, where floor-to-ceiling windows afford a very attractive view of the bustle below.
Some serious time and effort has been taken with the cocktail list – it’s huge, the backbar looks like an 18th century apothecary, and the drinks are fantastic.
The bar manager even came over to explain our liquid delights: a beautifully presented raspberry and thyme affair and a diabetic-friendly, Hemingway-inspired daiquiri.
The food is more straightforward – at least on paper. It’s a cliche to talk about giving British classics a twist, but entirely accurate in this case.
The cured meats board was full of excellent cuts, with a bowl of luxury dripping to lavish on generous hunks of soda bread. The smoked, potted aubergine was smooth in the extreme and smelt and tasted like a cold November night.
Less traditional, but a bit of a stunner, was the octopus: lightly charred and served on a bed of black rice and saffron swimming in its own ink.
The tender lamb rumb and crispy belly was also fantastic, served with impossibly creamy mash and rich jus/gravy.
An unfortunate let down was the lemongrass sea bream – not as smoked as advertised, a bit undercooked and served tepid. All a bit of a shame.
But the pudding was a redeemer – zesty citrus cheesecake with a decadent helping of honeycomb, smothered liberally in honey and accompanied by a wonderfully tart sorbet.
With mains starting from a distinctly uncommercial tenner, we definitely left happy.
If you value what this story gives you, please consider supporting the Islington Gazette. Click the link in the orange box above for details.