Korova, Tufnell Park, review: ‘relaxed and wonderfully local’
- Credit: Archant
Korova in Tufnell Park serves delicious Mediterranean style food throughout the day using locally sourced, seasonal produce.
I love a restaurateur who’ll plonk down a blackboard and talk me through every dish. There’s no excuse then for distraction or panic ordering, and the pressure is on to impress all the staff with the superiority of my palate. Or at least pretend to.
In this case, the superiority is with Korova, Tufnell Park’s Mediterranean all day eatery. If you can’t find anything you like on this menu, then I wash my hands of you.
We kick things off with a couple of cocktails, because if you can’t have a delicious hibiscus Bellini on a Wednesday, when can you?
The viande de Grison starter with jolly melon and shaved parmesan sets my meal off to a great start. I love nothing more than a cold meat, especially when paired with sweet balls of tangy melon and sharp interludes of cheese (£8).
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My date follows up his Hemingway daiquiri with the duck mousse with quince and sauternes jelly and toasted brioche (£9.50). Stealing more than a little taste, it’s gone in a matter of minutes.
The blackboard displays almost any kind of meat I could desire, but I opt for confit duck with puy lentils and wilted watercress (£15.95). The bird is perfectly cooked; the flesh falls off the bone and marries beautifully with the lentils – my only complaint would be that there are a few too many lentils and I can’t make my way through them all.
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The new season grouse sitting across the table from me with truffle and mushroom mash, poached pear and marsala sauce (£16.95) has me salivating, but has disappeared before I am able to try more than a mouthful.
Rounding things off with warm Tarte Tatin and pink rippled ice cream is the best possible way to end a meal.
A café by day and cocktail bar and restaurant by night, Korova covers all bases.
It has that wonderfully local feel about it. I am transported to my favourite Mediterranean taverna and the warmness of owners Steve and Sital makes me feel as though I’m in the kitchen of a family friend. The other diners are as relaxed as we are – this is definitely the place to enjoy a leisurely evening meal.
It’s good to know also that their seasonal food is sourced locally, from Kentish Town to Tottenham to Finsbury Park.
There are so many reasons to return to Korova – we only experienced dinner, but I’ve yet to sample the one pan breakfast or chorizo brunch. That’s not to mention the full scope of the cocktail menu.
And there’s a comté burger and fries for lunch that has my name written all over it.
Korova, 9 Campdale Road, N7 0EA, 020 7263 1515.