Restaurant Review: Seagrass, N1

One of Islington’s finest restaurants re-opened after a brief hiatus in February, and happily the quality is as high as ever.

Seagrass, once known as Bonnie and Wild, takes over the 100- year-old M. Manzes Pie and Mash Shop every Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 7pm.

The menu is roughly divided into seafood, game and vegetarian options and they offer three courses for �30, which along with the ‘bring your own booze’ policy makes for a reasonably priced supper.

Head chef Ian Sim uses only fresh produce, with no microwave or freezer in the kitchen, and it is a testament to his ideals that very little venison was available on our visit as it is largely out of season.

There was just enough for a delicate starter, though, and it was cooked to perfection.

The lobster bisque appetiser we enjoyed was very good, a rich and creamy broth.

Then came the sea bream main course, light and well seasoned, the lobster thermidore, fibrous and satisfying, and the rib-eye steak, rare and juicy.

It is good to know that Seagrass, which prides itself on providing top quality cooking at medium prices, is back and firing on all cylinders.

With such a unique and fabulous venue, plus talented and dedicated staff, it’s hard to see where they can go wrong.