Farley Macallan, Hackney, review: ‘biodynamic evening that set our eyes alight’
- Credit: Archant
Farley Macallan “reinvents the local” with biodynamic wines and provides a welcoming atmosphere, despite its position on Hackney’s noisy crossroads
Rudolf Steiner is famous for a lot of things, and I don’t understand most of them.
This would be why I just spent half an hour trying (and failing) to understand the processes of biodynamic viticulture, for which he is responsible. Still don’t get it.
But, just as I don’t need to know every stage of making Montepulciano d’Abruzzo to know that it tastes delicious (one of my favourites), I’m happy for the biodynamic process to remain a mystery to me.
Luke Ramsden founded Farley Macallan to “reinvent the local”, incorporating space for neighbourhood creatives to showcase their work.
You may also want to watch:
Positioned perhaps unfortunately on the corner of a very busy crossroads halfway between Hackney Central and Homerton stations, it’s not the most relaxing place to hang your hat.
But the dimly lit interior, with filament light bulbs and necessary framed portrait of a fox, feels cosy and welcoming.
- 1 Police cordon in place after Essex Road pub 'assault'
- 2 Petrol station forecourts closed and long queues in north London
- 3 How some Islington tenants are losing their homes in a matter of minutes
- 4 Man killed and two injured in triple shooting
- 5 Thousands of care home staff yet to be vaccinated in London
- 6 Man killed in 'shooting' in north London
- 7 Finsbury Park man arrested on suspicion of second north London murder
- 8 New free map reveals the best walking routes in Hackney and Islington
- 9 Stop the Burn: Protest planned against Edmonton incinerator rebuild
- 10 Appeal to find four children missing from north London with father and grandmother
Through a curtain is The Workers’ Cafe, where non-office-based professionals can stare at their screens somewhere other than Starbucks.
Our waiter was ready to describe the origin of every wine I didn’t understand: most of them – the list is unusual and many of the names unfamiliar – at least to me, though this probably says very little.
Split into “Easy”, “Focus” and “Biodynamic and Organic”, prices range from a reasonable £24 Sauvignon Blanc to a more extravagant £72 Chateau Musar.
We started with an “easy” Oltre Passo Primitivo (£24), a beautiful and full-bodied red accompanied by rich brawn, salty bresoala and an Italian Gratin Blue – there really is nothing like cheese and wine.
The crisp, white Biodynamic Sancerre (£38) we enjoyed with gravadlax and samphire.
But it was the Chapel Down Brut sparkling wine (£36 a bottle) with clotted cream cheesecake that truly set our eyes alight.
We left feeling more than a little woozy, but – a testament to the wine quality – none of it showed in the morning.
Farley Macallan, 177-179 Morning Lane, farleymacallan.com