Food review: Busan BBQ at Dead Dolls House, Upper Street

Dead Dolls House interior

Dead Dolls House interior - Credit: Archant

As food reviews go, my visit to Upper Street’s Dead Dolls House could not be any more straightforward.

Dead Dolls House in Upper Street

Dead Dolls House in Upper Street - Credit: Archant

My friend and I are visiting one of Islington’s trendiest bars for its Busan BBQ takeover.

A Korean/American street food venture, Busan invaded the Dolls House kitchen every Thursday in May - and will do so again in June (except June 16).

Simplicity is the key on this menu. It features only four mains: three burgers and one crispy fried tofu with Korean sweet chilli sauce.

And there are just three sides to choose from: two types of fries and one corn on the cob. No messing with starters and desserts here. It’s clearly aimed at Upper Street’s “thirsty Thursday” crowd.

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My friend and I both go for the “Busan Burger” (£8). The patty is dipped in soy bulgogi sauce and topped with mustard pickled onions and ssamjang mayo.

Busan Burger and K-Fries at Dead Doll's House. Picture: Carline Cheng

Busan Burger and K-Fries at Dead Doll's House. Picture: Carline Cheng - Credit: Archant

The succulent meat is beautiful. It easily stands up against most burger joints in town. My only gripe is the brioche bun. It is a little too sweet and becomes an unwelcome intruder on every mouthful.

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And we both choose the “K-Fries” as our side. They are piled high with kimchi, beef, cheese, sour cream, pickled chillis and spring onions.

True, it’s not the most aesthetically pleasing dish. My friend frets: “It looks like a bowl of chips with everything from a bin dumped on top.”

But I demolish it. Fries, with tasty pieces of beef and spice? What’s not to like? (Plain fries at £3 are also available.)

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