Panzo, Exmouth Market, review: ‘Beautiful pizza, beautiful décor’

Panzo on Exmouth Market. Picture: Claire Menary

Panzo on Exmouth Market. Picture: Claire Menary - Credit: Archant

Zoe Paskett visits Panzo, Exmouth Market’s new pizza place that uses a special twice cooked rice dough

Panzo on Exmouth Market. Picture: Claire Menary

Panzo on Exmouth Market. Picture: Claire Menary - Credit: Archant

Terrariums, succulents, drinks on tap, copper covered everything – I mean everything, including the air conditioning unit. This place couldn’t be trendier if it tried and, boy, has Panzo tried.

All credit to them, it looks gorgeous and if I love anything, it’s attention to detail. The décor is just as beautiful as their pizzas, arranged in the window to call people in from competitive Exmouth Market.

The owner, Anna Skigin, explains that the USP of their pizzas (and with Pizza Pilgrims just down the road, they need one) is the dough. Made from rice, soy and wheat flours, it contains less gluten and, apparently, has 70 per cent fewer calories than regular dough.

Twice cooked until crispy, she says it is far more digestible as well. My friend takes this as meaning it won’t be as filling – she’s a little tentative about the size and asks, only half joking, if she can order two. More on that later.

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For starters, I choose Bruce and she chooses Tina. Bruce is a delicious charcuterie board, which I munch my way through with a little bread, and Tina is a rich and creamy Burratina, a mozzarella pouch filled with velvety cheese.

Strangely named though the dishes are, the menu is conveniently priced by course: starters are £5, pizzas £8.50 and desserts £4.

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Some people may think it’s boring, but I find you can really tell a lot about a restaurant based on a margherita, so that’s what I pick. My friend opts for St. Paulo, with wild mushrooms, goat cheese, gorgonzola, mozzarella, truffle. She’s in heaven. I don’t much care for mushrooms but I’m jealous of the amount of cheese she’s got compared to me. My Maggie is delicious – the tomatoes fresh, and the base crispy and tasty – but I could do with a bit more mozzarella. That said, it is definitely filling, and no second pizza is needed.

Apart from this one for dessert: my first ever marmalade pizza, with orange slices and melted chocolate, both bitter and sweet, but completely yummy.

All accompanied by a little Frizzante and red “Magic” wine from the taps – I need these installed in my kitchen pronto.

Suitably stuffed, we rolled ourselves out past Panzo’s competition in Exmouth Market. This new joint could give them a run for their money.

Panzo, 50 Exmouth Market, 02072789986

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