Restaurant review: Ayrshire Veal and Fine Wine Evening at The Jugged Hare, EC2

Veal was very much the star of the show

Veal was very much the star of the show - Credit: Archant

It’s not often that one gets the chance to indulge in one meat to the point of it featuring in every dish on the menu. So when that opportunity comes along I, for one, believe it should be grabbed with both hands. Such was the excitement when we saw that the Jugged Hare was hosting a five-course veal extravaganza with matched wines - one of the venues monthly dinners showcasing meat that’s just come into season.

The communal dinner was held in the venue's oplulent Josephine Room

The communal dinner was held in the venue's oplulent Josephine Room - Credit: Archant

Arriving at the cavernous basement we were greeted and shown to our mixed tables and the feast began. Kicking off proceedings was a short talk from Ben Weatherall, the owner of the Blackface Meat Company who provided the veal. Then the fun began. First up was carapccio...

Then came milk-fed veal liver parfait, which was served with gooseberries to offset the uber creamy texture and taste. It was definitely rich, and was complemented fantastically by a glass of Côtes de Ventoux.

In between courses, the resident Sommelier took us through the wines being served, and the assembled group oohed and ahhed about the choices. But only until the next course... peppered veal ‘Wellington’, minted snow peas, nettle and pea purée, almond jus.

My favourite dish of the evening, the Wellington was succulent and the red meat more like an extremely tender piece of beef than any veal I’ve ever tasted before. Again, the accompaniments complemented the dish perfectly and lifted what could have been a heavy dish into something more summery.


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A cheese course finished off any thoughts of dessert. Until, of course, dessert was served (blessedly veal-free). Rhubarb panna cotta, sherbet tuille, and liquorice ice cream were all too good to resist and we finished off the night with a coffee and a loosening of the belt. Perfect.

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