Despite being part of a chain, Cote Islington strives for individuality – actively engaging the community and regularly changing the menu are just two examples.

One of the first things that strikes you about this well appointed, romantically lit restaurant is how cheap the food is – the early bird deal of two courses for £9.95 strikingly good value.

There is also a lot of options, mainly French. I had a very good steak tartar, with quality mince and a strong, peppery seasoning.

My partner had the excellent prawn gratinée which, with lovely white wine, garlic, chilli and tomato sauce, is among the best appetisers I‘ve tried recently.

For the main I chose the beef bourguignon, which was nice enough but a touch on the bland side – although in fairness I was spoiled as a youth; my uncle was a chef in France and bourguignon was his signature dish.

Across the table, my girlfriend had a very impressive fish parmentier; different white fish and salmon smothered in a creamy white wine and leek sauce with mash potato and gruyère.

As you might expect from a French place the wine list is long, so we sipped a couple of ultra sweet dessert wines instead of dessert.

I am not sure quite what my expectations were, but Cote definitely exceeded them – it has choice, value and quality and we will be dining there again.