Restaurant review: Fifteen, Shoreditch, N1
- Credit: Archant
As things tend to do over the span of a decade, Jamie Oliver’s flagship restaurant was a bit past its best. A noble cause, but the dishes were looking a bit dated and on the pricey side.
Never one to sit still for long, the naked chef closed the place down for 10 weeks, giving it a bit of a facelift and revamping the menu under the beady eye of executive head chef Jon Rotheram.
The end result’s a good one; the place looks better, with a nice big bar area, a huge wood fire oven, a smokery and other pleasing touches while the menu has emerged as a British tapas selection, 20 or so ever-changing bites designed to encourage a sociable, sharing kind of meal.
They range from the sort of “mouthful for £4” variety at the top of the menu to fairly hearty fare at the bottom and our knowledgable, food-loving waitress recommended we go for somewhere in the region four and six.
The oysters confirmed their Britishness with dill and apple vinegar dressing, which was surprisingly nice – not too sweet, while the grilled cuttlefish was a triumph – tempura style with courgettes and vinegrette.
You may also want to watch:
The lemon sole came with juicy little shrimps and, intriguingly, an almond dressing; the crunch adding a nice balance to the soft fish.
Meanwhile, the sirloin, one of the bigger helpings, came in easy-to-share chunks, although the tender meat, with a swathe of exterior fat lending bags of flavour, made me want to keep it to myself.
- 1 'Proper old Islington boozer' voted best pub by readers
- 2 Trevi Ristorante scoops prize with readers' votes
- 3 Kacem Mokrane: Islington man amongst seven charged with 2017 murder
- 4 Man in Highbury court charged with shooting gun in High Holborn
- 5 Dog Olympix 2021 raises more than £700 for a water fountain in Whittington Park
- 6 Mem and Laz Brasserie voted as readers' favourite restaurant
- 7 Tony Eastlake: Man denies murder of ‘flower man of Islington’
- 8 Aristocrat's daughter, 25, died unexpectedly after developing 'severe headache'
- 9 Spectrum to C5: How Clive Sinclair began the UK’s tech revolution from a house in Islington
- 10 'Islington drivers – you don't always need to overtake cyclists'
It’s a great relaunch for Fifteen, everything feels a lot fresher and more “now” – including the cocktails, which are inventive and come in some funky receptacles. It’s still not cheap once you’ve stacked a few plates up, but definitely worth re-visiting.