Restaurant review: Finch’s bold menu could entice you to the City
- Credit: Archant
If your not a suit clad city type, there’s not all that much to tempt you down to dine on the unpromising stretch of City Road south of Old Street.
Certainly the walk to Finch’s, named after Henry Hobson Finch who founded the original pub in 1865, from Moorgate tube involves negotiating a dizzying concrete maze of skyscrapers.
But the pub has made every effort to provide a cosy, warm welcome within the financial jungle. The result is part on-trend kitsch, part chain-bar.
Likewise the menu is a mixture of reliable old favourites and something a bit more daring; burgers and bangers and mash sit side by side with marmalade duck breast and carrot fondant.
A good example of the latter is the coffee-cured salmon, which tasted like nothing so much as a cup of sugary Joe.
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I’m not quite sure it quite worked but it was a bold effort.
The moist ham terrine was surprisingly wrapped in bread crumbs, while the mac and cheese scotch egg was every bit as stodgy as it sounds.
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Back on more familiar ground; the hanger steak was fantastic; tender in the middle with a hint of char-grilled acridity.
Meanwhile the pork rib-eye was also very good; succulent to the fork and packed with porcine flavour.
Annoyingly the duck breast was a bit over done, while the accompanying potato fondant was under cooked.
Another ambitious attempt to finish; the chocolate salami was like nothing of this world - dark, mysterious and possibly the richest thing in EC1.
The service was very friendly, although contained the odd unexplained pause.
Finch’s attempts to tread a rather tricky line, keeping the suits swilling their beers while enticing people who don’t work in the financial district.
It probably won’t blow you away, but it’s distinctly better than average. If you find yourself adrift in the city and in need of a bite, look it up.