Restaurant review: Fish Market, Bishopsgate, EC2
- Credit: Photo credit: Paul Winch-Furness
There are some really good restaurants in the City, but all too often they are bit soulless, clinical – the kind of place people would take a client too, rather than an old pal.
Fish Market, yet another new arrival on New Street manages to swerve that particular trap, despite being just a stone’s throw from Liverpool Street,
Fair enough, it doesn’t open on weekends. And, if the truth be told, you can see some pseudo industrial breeze blocks and so on behind the wooden tables.
But there is life to the place – outdoor seats with heating and al fresco music planned for summer – staff who are passionate about the food and drink – a barman who recommends cocktails not on the menu, a chef who isn’t afraid to dismember a crab in front of you.
In many respects has the feel of a thriving family-run place.
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The menu is good fun too; lots of raw stuff, fishwiches, all kinds of oceanic dwellers, plus a very impressive specials board for the catch of the day.
It’s hard to get oysters and a crisp Chablis wrong, and they didn’t. It’s definitely possible to mess up salt and pepper squid, but good marks here too for a starter full of spice and vigour.
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But predictably the star of the show was the fresh fish.
Dover sole is rightly known as the king of the sea and our filleted portion was expensive, but fantastic. Firm, tender flesh with strong, though not overpowering flavour swimming in rich garlic butter. The lemon sole was only slightly less fantastic, and around half the price might be a better bet. Again, succulent, robust flavour and an excellent bearnaise sauce. My only gripe is it’s nice to see the fish grilled and served whole, both for reasons of taste and authenticity.
But, by this time sipping a cool Sancerre, we had no real complaints. If you are that way on a weeknight, you really should check it out.