Restaurant review: House of Ho, Soho, W1

The Seafood Ceviche, Pic: Ming Tang-Evans

The Seafood Ceviche, Pic: Ming Tang-Evans - Credit: Archant

A new restaurant from a well-known chef in saturated Soho always runs the risk of having more style than content.

Happily, the much-heralded arrival of House of Ho does not disappoint, nimbly avoiding pretentious pitfalls with a combination of great food, lovely service and prices that won’t make your wallet weep.

The man behind the menu – Bobby Chinn – is an inventive cove, drawing culinary influences from his Chinese and Egyptian heritage, via San Francisco and Hanoi, where he has plied his trade.

As a result the food on offer broadly falls into the Vietnamese bracket with a few incongruous surprises – salmon tartare, squab, chayote – thrown in.

Divided into light and raw, hot and grilled, specials and sides, the best technique is to order a couple of each and get sharing.


You may also want to watch:


The seafood ceviche was seminal and immaculately presented (to my eyes at least, my guest thought it looked like a coconut being sick). Smoother and creamier than the Peruvian variety, but with plenty of citrus and spice – top notch.

Tangy

Most Read

The rolls were a little bland, and the wings merely pleasant, while the tangy salmon was a light and fresh appetiser and the zingy grilled quails were moreish in the extreme.

The real showstoppers were the mains though. The sea bream, elegantly grilled with a crust, look fantastic; served head-on and posed as though it was diving out of the ocean. It was one for the Instagram scrapbook.

With flesh cooked to perfection, without much seasoning but a wickedly zesty coriander dip to bring everything together, it was an absolute winner.

Meanwhile the steak – unbelievably tender and very rare, with just a hint of chargilled bitterness – also got my juices going.

Even the pudding, a fondant packed with smokey Vietnamese chocolate, didn’t disappoint.

All the food at House of Ho is good – and some of it is exceptional – so as you’re only talking £10 to £15 for the (not huge) mains, why not go ahead and treat yourself?

Become a Supporter

This newspaper has been a central part of community life for many years. Our industry faces testing times, which is why we're asking for your support. Every contribution will help us continue to produce local journalism that makes a measurable difference to our community.

Become a Supporter