Restaurant review: Hudson’s House, Bloomsbury, WC1

Hudson's House; dark, cosy and cool

Hudson's House; dark, cosy and cool - Credit: Archant

Hudson’s House popped up on the side of the St Giles Hotel in November with the promise of louche, 1930s-style surroundings, strong cocktails and unpretentious, British food.

From the outside it looks like just another dimly lit bar in that salubrious strip between Tottenham Court Road and Goodge Street, and continues in this vein as you go through the doors.

Once you get to the restaurant section at the back, however, things are looking up – leather-clad booths, dark wood and extravagant light fittings add up to an atmosphere of snug elegance, an effect ruined somewhat by a trip to the toilets; up a flight of stairs in the adjacent (brightly lit) hotel lobby. Still, all very relaxing as we pondered the kitchen’s offerings over a couple of Old-Fashioneds.

The menu seems to change fairly regularly, with fresher more spring like offerings now available – but during our visit the blue cheese-stuffed brussel sprouts were a bit of a hit with a rich, slightly unusual, salty taste offset by sweet pumpkin.

For the mains we also hit up a couple of winter warmers. The rib-eye steak was big and juicy, with a reasonable pepper sauce that did the trick without setting the taste buds alight.

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The pork belly on the other hand was a bit of a treat; a thick crust of crispy fat set atop a slab of flavour packed meat, brought to full intensity by sharp red cabbage and rich gravy – definitely one to warm the cockles.

It’s hard to know where to file Hudson’s. It’s a nice place to eat once you get past the busy bar. The food is satisfying, but probably not worth heading into town for. If indulging in some January sales shopping, pop in and take a look for yourself.

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