In the same way you can’t judge a book by its cover, you can’t judge a restaurant by its name. While India Per Se might be a slightly pretentious moniker, the eatery formerly known as Eriki on Finchley Road serves up some very good food.

The recent refurbishment has given the place a distinctly extravagant air – solid wooden tables and chairs, intricately carved cutlery and enticing facade all hint at a menu above and beyond a standard late night Ruby.

And so it proved – the starters were entirely bereft of bhajis and tikka, so ­instead we had the excellent scallops sitting on cabbage puree and topped with caviar; and the some very ­impressive battered prawns with and apple relish.

The mains were the same – while you could get versions of kormas and rogan josh, there was much more in way of chops, seafood and fish.

From the clay oven, the kings prawns really were ­regal; five of the huge blighters served whole and absolutely inundated with dry, heady, tandoori spice.

In contrast the tender sea bass was swimming in a sumptuous, slightly sweet, molee sauce and served alongside spiced potatoes and some deep curried ­aubergine.

This is not your normal curry house – clearly evidenced by our unordered amuse-bouche (zingy coriander laden puffed rice with rich chicken-liver pickle) - and while the prices are high enough to put off the rowdy post-pub crowd, the food is excellent and more that enough to warrant the schlep to Swiss Cottage.