Restaurant review: Lanes of London, Mayfair, W1

The impressive entrance of the Park Lane manison Pic: Gareth Gardner

The impressive entrance of the Park Lane manison Pic: Gareth Gardner - Credit: Archant

It’s both a blessing and a curse that the capital boasts good eating from the four corners of the globe.

While wonderful to be able to nip out for a bite from, say, your local Timbuktu-themed restaurant, it can make choosing where to go a bit stressful for an indecisive chap like me.

And where to eat can also be the source of really quite bitter arguments, at least in my house, but Mayfair’s Lanes of London might have come up with a solution.

It’s a startlingly simple premise – offer a range of the capital’s culinary hits all under one roof; the roof in this case being a gorgeous Edwardian mansion on Park Lane.

On our visit you could enjoy curry from Brick Lane, Vietnamese fresh from Kingsland Road, falafel originating Edgware Road, fish from Billingsgate and on-trend bites from Portobello Road: all available in sharing size plates (although some main meals are there for those who are more territorial).

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Despite the entrance being marred somewhat by a load of scaffolding, the inside is lovely, all smoked glass, marble and Art Deco elegance, and after an enormous Maharaja punch (from Brick Lane, naturally) we ploughed into some grub.

The beef brisket sliders were a tasty mouthful, spiked with a tangy horseradish and intensely rich bone marrow, while the kofta was well-seasoned and came on an authentic, smoky mound of babaganoush.

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Our hash was a nice take on the classic, with a duck egg and brown sauce; and the lamb cutlets, though not as pink as they might have been, came doused in vigorous pea and mint flavours.

Pudding-wise it was back to Britain, and a rather decadent chocolate tart with clotted ice cream, and then it was time to collapse into a food-induced slump.

Lanes of London have hit upon a great idea which would be particularly good for a group of diners – you’d probably get to try everything.

And considering you’re eating in a posh building on Park Lane, it’s not too expensive.

Next time you can’t decide which cuisine you want, head to Lanes and have the lot.

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