Restaurant review: Mile High, a secret location in London, W1
- Credit: Archant
Pop-up restaurants are ten a penny these days and immersive theatre is so on trend it’s becoming common – but what if you combine the two?
That’s the approach taken by Mile High, a dining experience that whisks you back to the glory days of air travel – glamorous air hostesses, dashing captains and well-shaken cocktails.
After a successful first “trip” to Gothenberg in March, the cabin crew have set up shop in a new location ready to fly you to Beirut –the Paris of the Middle east.
We had a brief queue at the door (just like a real airport) before we were ushered through in groups to the departure lounge.
On the way we passed a ticket office to collect a passport and boarding card which enabled us to claim a couple of expertly mixed cocktails.
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While sipping these amid the luxury 1950s decor, cabin crew brought round snacks (including some excellent Moutabal) and a bit of a back story unfolded around us – the captain’s a drunk, there’s priceless artwork stashed in the hold – that kind of thing. After an hour or so of that horseplay we boarded the plane, again in groups, and settled down for a four course Beirut banquet.
It’s a communal dining experience, so not ideal for a date, but it is lots of fun.
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And while the Lebanese lady on my left told me the food was only about 20 per cent authentic, most of it was very good – not surprising as it’s the work of former Moro chef Oliver Templeton.
After a fairly bland asparagus salad, the grilled squid with lemon and chilli was excellent – although it came out a bit cold due to serving 50-odd covers at once.
The lamb belly main was also a cracker – tender meat topped with tangy garlic puree and balanced by potato and a crunchy almond salad.
The rose and pomegranate jelly pudding wasn’t great, a little lightweight in flavour and a bit too dense, but the most important courses really hit the spot.
And there’s a lot more to Mile High than the food . It’s a full evening’s entertainment.
We didn’t finish eating until almost 11pm, but the time (ahem) flew by – although this meant we ordered more wine (only a couple of bottles per table are included with the ticket).
The team are going to Beirut until May 11, then have trips to Sicily and Mozambique planned for later in the year, so if you fancy an funky, alternative way to eat out, climb aboard.