Restaurant review: Perkin Reveller, EC4

The stunning view from our table

The stunning view from our table - Credit: © Mark Cocksedge

Although it’s notoriously easy to be become complacent about London’s more famous landmarks, the sight of Tower Bridge and Tower of London never fails to send a patriotic shiver down my spine.

The Perkin Reveller Restaurant - The Narrative. PIC: Mark Cocksedge

The Perkin Reveller Restaurant - The Narrative. PIC: Mark Cocksedge - Credit: © Mark Cocksedge

But knowing local authorities as I do, I would have staked a lot of money that a bid to convert this venerable old building would get short shrift.

It took two years, but that’s exactly what Perkin Reveller have done and I reckon it’s been worth it, because not many restaurants can boast this sort of setting.

Set under the old bridge, the approach is all cobbled lanes, while the interior is grand old doorways and tunnels. The extension has been done very sympathetically and the view across the bridge whilst you dine is second to none.

The bar is set in the original building, and the medieval stone walls towered above us as well supped a fresh and fruity Secret Millionaire cocktail and a rather scotchy Rob Roy. - with some moreish home made pork scratchings.

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The restaurant itself was sparsely populated, apart from a large, rather bawdy group in the corner, and the place seems to be packed out as a destination on special occasions, but needs to build an everyday following.

The food was certainly good enough to help in that respect, as was the small and predominantly French list, which the helpful sommelier helped us negotiate glass by glass ti find the perfect accompaniment.

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The goat cheese and pomegranate salad was smooth and light, while the chorizo and scallop starter was excellent - served in shell, on a bed of salt, the flesh was firm, but yielding and the croutons of Spanish sausage added much-needed smokiness.

For main we had the fish stew, which one of their more popular dishes, and here’s why: it’s a hug earthenware pot full to the brim with succulent chunks of white fish, salmon, cockles, mussels and even whole bits of (shell-on) crab all in an immensely tasty, tarragon infused broth. It was delicious was almost have enough for both of us.

The duck was a more delicate affair, with tender thin strips of pink meat, a potato nest on top and creamed kale underneath. I don’t remember seeing the advertised confit leg, but it was very good nonetheless.

A side of creamed potato is a must - very rich, but incredibly satisfying.

The Perkin Reveller team deserve a lot of praise for their perseverance in creating a landmark restaurant.

It’s a lot less expensive than it’s grand location would imply, and the food and wine are all of a great standard. Then, of course, there’s the view...

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