Restaurant review: Tramshed, Shoreditch, EC2


Tramshed - Credit: Archant

If you’re looking for a restaurant with a varied and adventurous menu, then The Tramshed isn’t it. But, if you’re a meat-lover that could think of nothing better than a nice succulent chicken or juicy steak for dinner, then this is your place.

These two options is pretty much all that renowned restaurateur Mark Hix’s latest venture offers – a concept summed up in the imposing Damien Hirst vitrine of a cow with a cockerel sitting on its back which looks over diners in the vaulted, Grade II listed warehouse-like former tram shed.

The concept might be simplistic, but the restaurant delivers it with confidence – using the best produce it can lay its hands on and cooking it expertly, showcasing both meats to their full potential.

Let’s face it, roast chicken and steak probably account for more than half of the nation’s favourite dishes – and it’s clear the Shoreditch diners who had this place packed out on my recent midweek visit had the appetite for the idea.

But while the mains may be all about the meat, the starters offered a chance for some lighter culinary delights ahead of the rich feast which was to follow.

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My friend and I opted for the De Beauvoir smoked salmon with shaved fennel and asparagus served with hollandaise sauce. The fish was fresh and tasty, with the vegetables cooked to tender perfection and the creamy accompaniment a dream.

We then went all out on the steak front, choosing to share the Porterhouse steak – the best cut of meat on the menu. Part sirloin and part fillet it’s similar to a T-bone cut but with more of the tenderloin.

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It was huge, and as our waiter carved it up in front of us at the table I wondered if we could conquer this mouth-watering slab of beef.

But it was so good, we couldn’t have allowed ourselves to leave a scrap – tender, melt-in-the-mouth meat, bursting with flavour and completely free of any nasty fatty, gristly bits.

All the beef is aged in a Himalayan salt chamber and comes from Shorthorn, Hereford and Aberdeen Angus breeds – and the quality is evident in the taste.

Served medium rare, it was among the best steaks I’ve had and the creamy Bernaise sauce set it off a treat.

Meanwhile, whole roast chickens were also flooding out of the kitchen – presented impaled on a specially spiked dish – and looked good. A vegetarian option and a fish finger dish are available on request – but that’s not what people go there for.

For dessert and I opted for a warm apple pie with ice cream, with my friend going for the lighter ice cream choice – both of which were delicious.

Everything was washed down with a glorious bottle of the house red –specially made with three varieties of grape to complement the meat in the best way.

It’s obviously not a restaurant that leaves you wanting to return to try out everything on the menu, but I certainly know where to go if I want a fine steak in future.

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