Restaurant review: Wabi, Holborn, WC2

Wabi

Wabi - Credit: Archant

With a former Nobu head chef at the helm, Wabi is the latest upmarket Japanese eatery to hit the capital’s food circuit – and naturally has the high expectations of the global restaurant brand to live up to.

Wabi

Wabi - Credit: Archant

Despite being nestled underground in a rather drab and quiet corner of Holborn, the interior is a sleek, minimalist and glamorous affair – with soft lighting and a buzzy atmosphere on the Saturday night we visited.

Wabi

Wabi - Credit: Archant

Having been overwhelmed with the vast array of choice on the a la carte menu, we opted for the 10-course Kaiseki tasting menu which showcases the talents of Scott Hallsworth’s kitchen in all its glory – with theatrical presentation given as much thought as the taste.

The culinary journey started with some snacks of fire roasted edamame beans, delicious smoky pork scratchings and a wasabi dip. Then crunchy Tamaki cones filled with toro (tuna) arrived with a wasabi cream and charcoal onion topping on the side allowing us to create our own mini savoury ice-cream cones – fun and tasty.

The sea bass and yellowtail sashimi were delicate and fresh, and the warm loch duart salmon with lemon miso was hidden under a piece of blow torched cedar wood – creating a magnificent oaky taste.


You may also want to watch:


But, for me, the courses of lobster and chips and wagu steak ishi-yaki were vying for the evening’s starring role. The lobster was soft and buttery, served with a yuzu-truffle egg dip, which complemented the fish perfectly, and the vegetable chips created a welcome crunchy dimension to the textures of the dish.

Meanwhile the steak arrived at our table on a sizzling plate with the meat cooked to perfection in a BBQ sauce, bursting with tangy, smoky flavours.

Most Read

The desserts of calpico sorbet with slow gin jelly and wabi-style tiramisu did not disappoint, either.

Our sommelier served wines to match each course, with the pinot noir from New Zealand bursting with rich flavours forming a particular highlight. The cocktails which were brought to our table at the end of the meal were also a highlight.

Wabi provides top notch food in a glamorous setting, but if you choose the tasting menu – despite its price tag – you’re opting for an experience, and one which comes highly recommended.

Become a Supporter

This newspaper has been a central part of community life for many years. Our industry faces testing times, which is why we're asking for your support. Every contribution will help us continue to produce local journalism that makes a measurable difference to our community.

Become a Supporter
Comments powered by Disqus